Even the Space Hulk Blood Angel terminators have more movement than their multi-part plastic terminator counterparts. But whining about it will only get you so far, that's the LeadHead's new "running" terminator there on the right.
If you want movement, you're going to have to work on how you assemble the models and then look at physically repositioning
them yourself if you can't get what you want there.
I'll be starting my Deathwing in the coming months and I know I'll be doing this very thing to some of my guys. I've already decided that I'll be repositioning arms and maybe even sculpting some bigger changes, but I really like the idea of changing up their leg positions. Even if it's a tiny change, I think it'll add to the character of the force.
I've been doing this for a ling time with Space Marine arms. It's one of those things I do now to get the fine tuning that I want and create variety in the poses they have. Just a simple twist or opening up of the arms can create a whole new look to the model. It doesn't have to be extreme or involve a huge amount of work to get a good result.
The process is simple, you get your arm (or leg) positioned where you want it and fill in the gap with greenstuff. Like all things, it's easier said than done though.
I'd add that if you do this to a part of the model that will be supporting additional weight or a place that is a thin/small joint, you might want to consider pinning the joint for reinforcement. I'm working on pinning a small joint for a friend who broke his model yesterday now. I'd say if there is any doubt in your mind to pin it ahead of time and save yourself the trouble later on.
Once you have your joint positioned (and pinned if needed) you can fill the gap with greenstuff. It doesn't take much to fill the gaps since you still need to keep your model anatomically correct and can only move his arm so far before it looks like it's growing out of his back.
The effect (at east on Space Marines) is finished off by cutting grooves or making indentations in the greenstuff to simulate the ribbing of the material at the joint. You don't have to be exact here either. I use an X-Acto blade for this since I want fine grooves in my mine.
Most of these places can't be completely seen and you're just looking to convince the viewer that there is something there at the joint. As long as the scale of your new ribbed joint is close to any other ones on the model, you should be fine.
|Note: There is one thing I should mention that I forgot to add when I posted this last night... when you reposition arms, always try out your shoulderpad (in the case of Marines) before making everything permanent. Sometimes you'll run into problems with the shoulderpad fitting and the backpack being in the way. A quick test fit should let you know if you're in the clear.|
But beware, once you get the hang of doing this, you'll start doing it on almost every model you assemble from that point on. And it won't stop at the shoulder either. Before you know it, you'll be fixing wrists, adjusting elbows and then the sky is the limit.