His left shoulderpad is a wolf's head basically. I ended up taking the wolf head from a Space Wolf backpack, cutting it off, trimming it down along with a regular shoulderpad and joining the two pieces. A little greenstuff for the "fur" and presto, instant shoulderpad.
Actually it's a bit more work than that. After adding a little greenstuff to each side of the wolf head, I used an X-Acto knife to mark off where each triangular fur piece would be. When I got to the bottom row, I cut away the excess greenstuff.
I took my GW sculpting tool and carefully pressed the tip into the areas between the rows to make them look like they overlap. I'm not sure what is on the right shoulderpad since it's covered with a pelt... so it's not that important now that I think about it.
Another piece that took some time to get assembled was his chainsword. When done, this thing will be in probably four pieces for just this arm. I still need to do a bunch of stuff to it like finish sculpting the teeth, add the diamond gem on the blade covering and clean up the joint in the middle of the weapon.
It's made with two chainswords so that I could extend it a bit to give it some real heft. I had to carefully cut each half at a point where I could join them back together and the teeth would match up. The pic above shows the conversion half way through the process, I still need to clean up the face of the chain guard and resculpt the teeth that I had to cut away.
This is a deceptive conversion. It's not as easy as just gluing the two halves together and greenstuffing the joint. This kind of conversion takes a considerable amount of work to pull off and have the viewer not even realize the chainsword has been extended. Stupid teeth on the blade... and they're on both sides in this case.
This picture is from another project, but the concept here is very important.
If you look at the small diagrams at the bottom of the pic (A and B), you'll see what I mean in the following explanation.
Example A is the "normal way" someone might go about joining the two blades. The problem with this method is that it will be near impossible to get a smooth transition between the two parts. The edge of each chainsword will make it impossible to fill the gap and not leave tell tale signs of your work.
Example B is the method you want to use. Before joining the two portions of the blade, you need to trim away the sharp corners and almost round out the edges to be joined. This will allow you to fill the gap with greenstuff and create a smooth transition between the two pieces hiding your work from sight.
Assault on Black Reach Captain test scheme
I have friend that has been kind enough to send me a bunch of models along with some test schemes of armies he'd like to build one day. As I get a free minute every now and then, I try and get one done for him to see what his scheme will look like on an actual model.
Keep in mind this guy was painted up real quick as I'm just trying to get the paint on the model so he can see what it looks like in real life. This guy is half black, half white on his armour, but you can hardly tell since he's draped in so many robes. I decided to keep him somewhat muted overall and use him as an opportunity to try out some highlighting with muted tones.
Instead of just picking a lighter shade of the color to highlight with, I added a light grey to the original color to create the highlight. It gives the highlights a certain feel and they aren't as bright and pure as if I'd done it with a lighter shade of the same hue.
Drathmere from 40k Hobby Blog and I were talking about his very thing the other day when it comes to highlighting red. It can be a difficult color to get right and maybe even a bit harder to get a nice highlight on top of that.
I've already adopted a slightly muted approach to my highlighting when it comes to red, maybe this will help push me to try it with other colors as well.